Step 1: Wood Selection and Requirements

We use primarily western red cedar and redwood in thickness of (thin) ½”, (standard) ¾”, and (thick) 1 ½”. These woods are used to create a 3-dimensional effect, but a person could use any one or a combination of them as your previous experience, available tools and creativity allow.

Tip: Be creative

Different varieties of wood create very different finished products. Sometimes changing one piece of wood can totally change the outcome of a finished piece.
Once you’ve decided which to use, plane surface to desired thickness. Again for all of our patterns you could use only one thickness of wood, which could be rounded when sanding to add depth.

Step 2:Tracing

Draw/Trace with carbon paper each piece of each pattern onto the desired wood, keeping in mind the color of wood needed and the grain direction arrows on the pattern pieces.

Tip: Patterns

If you plan to make more than a few finished pieces of any one pattern it is very helpful to glue the whole pattern to cardboard or 1/8” plywood and cut each pattern piece out with a fine blade scroll saw to create a “permanent” pattern for future use. This process eliminates drawing errors from trying to follow a pattern line and simplifies sanding and creates a tighter, more professional looking project.

Step 3: Cutting

Cut out all pieces with (my preference) a band saw with 1/8” or ¼” blade. A scroll saw may also be used. It will take longer, but may be more accurate depending on your abilities.

Step 4: Background

Assemble pieces on a piece of ¼” plywood (to be used later as a background).

Tip: Sanding

Pen mark areas to be sanded. Use a ballpoint pen or a pencil and decide and mark all areas of the cut pieces that need the edges sanded or trimmed to produce a tighter fit between pieces. This saves a lot of time standing by a sander and touching up areas.

Step 5: Sand Edges

Sand edges of all pieces to fit closely along adjoining (shared) lines.

Step 6: Sand Surfaces

Sand surface areas of all pieces to the desired thickness keeping in mind the overall depth of the piece. This step takes the most creativity on your part. Just look at the pattern and do what looks right to you. Remember if you mess up, and we all have, you can always make a new piece.

Tip: Sandpaper

Only sand as fine as needed. This may surprise you but I only use 100 grit sandpaper for my final finish sanding. That’s because that’s all it takes to remove all sanding marks that will show with finish. Many people over sand their work!

Step 7: 3-D

Slightly round all edges to create a more 3-dimensional look.

Step 8: Background

Lay sanded pieces on the backing you are using. I suggest ¼” plywood. I prefer birch. Trace around your piece and cut out the background.

Step 9: Hand-Sand

Hand-sand each piece with 100 – 150 grit sandpaper to remove any rough edges.

Step 10: Glue

Place backing on a covered flat surface that won’t be ruined with glue. Glue each of the sanded project pieces onto the backing. Use carpenter’s wood glue and after it has set awhile (10 minutes)….

Tip: Weight

Use weight to press the project down on the plywood. I like encyclopedias for this step!

Step 11: More Sanding

After drying overnight, sand around the edges (or cut if needed with scroll saw) to remove any unwanted material on the completed project.

Tip: Air

If you have an air compressor use it for “dusting” the project during sanding and finish sanding.

Step 12: Gloss

In a ventilated or open area, finish your project with a spray finish. I recommend “Deft” semi-gloss or gloss. Spray 4-8 coats front and back, then sand the front side only with 150 grit sandpaper, and apply 4-8 additional coats of finish.

Step 13: Applause

Place saw tooth hanger on back in center, sign it, and wait for the applause.

For more patterns, or finished product information visit our website at www.intarsia.org or email us at info@intarsia.org.

Hope you enjoy the projects!
- Scott and Sandy Gielish